With Love From Vermont

Travel diaries, food recommendations, and a self-guided retreat planner

Dear friends,

In 2016, after eloping and moving into a renovated barn loft, my husband and I were quietly settling into marriage. And by quietly I mean secretly. And by secretly I mean only our parents and a few kind souls over at his alma mater knew. One of those folks lovingly offered their family cottage to us for a honeymoon getaway. We eagerly said yes and found ourselves driving up to northern Vermont in the middle of October.

We barely saw anyone during our stay. The maple trees and cows offered plenty of company as we spent time together without the buzz of cell service or internet. I took pictures on my polaroid. We ate very simply. We put on caps and gloves to walk down long dirt roads and watch the lake breathe alongside us. It was exactly the kind of quiet we needed.

Unknowingly, this trip sparked a tradition a few years down the road. This year marks five years of autumnal visits to Vermont. The Green Mountain State has welcomed us, first as newlyweds, then as a couple seeking respite from graduate school and military service, and then again with one and two children. We’ve been fortunate, even while we lived in Virginia, to have the an excuse to go up and enjoy complete, no-nonsense, leisure time. Each trip is a unique combination of antique shops, old churches, coffee shops, farms, used bookstores, local food, and long, scenic drives, resulting in a renewed sense of peace.¹ I’m not sure what I’ll do when we eventually move beyond reach.

In honor of all the fun we’ve had so far, I offer you a few memories:

In Search of Raw Yogurt, Southern Vermont, 2019:

One of our first trips took us to the southern corner of the state where I booked a room at the Readsboro Inn. A full day was spent exploring the blue and white stoneware at Bennington Potters, covered bridges, and Robert Frost’s home in Shaftsbury. We even found a swing on a lovely overlook. Like two lovebirds, we sat for a while talking about everything and nothing. We returned to the inn to eat dinner at the bar downstairs. Although we were a drive from most anything, the dining room was bustling with locals and visitors alike, which meant the food was more than decent. Just us two, we stayed up late and made up stories about the folks dining next to us.

On the last day of this particular trip we left early in search of breakfast. Our foggy morning drive took us to Sunny Side Diner. A friendly “Ross, party of two!” was called and we happily sat at the bar where a lady was rolling clean silverware into napkins. Soon after our order was placed we were joined by another customer. He was smartly dressed and wore reading glasses. I imagined he had a child in college or maybe a grandchild. We made casual conversation and came to discover he was driving home after a business meeting. He was determined to find the farm stand he discovered on a trip. His eyes widened as he explained to us the unmatched flavor of the raw, unpasteurized yogurt he found. It was the most delicious yogurt he’d ever tasted. The waitress looked puzzled. She’d never heard of such a thing. Aaron and I were no help either.

(Other favorites: Mount Equinox Skyline Drive | Dot’s Restaurant | The Mile-Around the Woods | Putney Food Co-op)

The Hills are Alive, Northern(ish) Vermont, 2020:

We returned to Stowe with our eye on the Trapp Family Lodge, established by the very real von Trapp family who inspired the movie The Sound of Music. The accommodations themselves were out of our budget, but that didn’t stop us from walking up to the family chapel and tasting the fresh cinnamon rolls at the Kaffeehaus. I was determined to watch the sun rise over the mountains, but Aaron and I had a significant disagreement about what that meant. After a failed attempt, we returned to a high point near the lodge the next morning to try again. It still wasn’t impressive, but I loved watching the cows and sheep warm up to the day.

This was a year of historic uncertainty, both in our country and our home. 2019-2020 held a discouraging job search and a year’s worth of questions as I longed for a pregnancy of my own. This trip was a special respite for us, even though the room we rented only came with a half-bath. We visited Champlain Orchards, Crow Bookshop, and Shelburne Farms near Burlington before circling back to Stowe for a night. We ate a chilly breakfast on the patio of Butler’s Pantry, thanks to COVID regulations, but the fresh buttermilk pancakes (with real maple syrup, of course) and eggs benedict more than made up for it.

(Other favorites: Pingala Cafe | Burger Bus | Smuggler’s Notch | Ben & Jerry’s)

A Family Picnic, Central Vermont, 2024:

This year we planned four days in central Vermont. I booked a cozy suite in Randolph with plans to visit familiar favorites in Woodstock and new scenes around Norwich and Hanover, New Hampshire. The drive up with two small children went well. I credit the interesting snacks from Trader Joe’s and the Best Gregorian Chants playlist on repeat. We settled into our quaint AirBnb after being warmly welcomed with fresh eggs and a wolf spider in the shower. (!!) Our unwanted guest turned the mood quickly. To lift our spirits I scooped hot, homemade chicken pot pie into bowls for my hungry travelers.² Once all the tiny feet were tucked in for the night, Aaron and I enjoyed the books we brought along.

One of the many traditions we’ve held on to over the years takes us over the creek and through the woods, just behind Woodstock’s picturesque downtown. Sugarbush Farm harvests delicious maple syrup and makes excellent cheese. Free samples? Say no more. Beautiful hillside views? Yes, please.

After greeting the animals and walking through the wooded path up to a small chapel, we sat down for a picnic lunch. I brought supplies for sandwiches along with other homemade snacks. Everything was packed neatly between our well worn cloth napkins. This year I pulled out pickles and homemade apple sauce. Aaron snagged some “snacking cheese” from the shop and our feast was complete. Everyone soon became focused on the meal in front of them but I couldn’t help but take in the moment at hand. Our meal was encased by fall’s best colors and gentle, cool breeze. The same picnic table Aaron and I shared in years past felt fuller and louder. What a gift!

(Other favorites: Lou’s Diner | Mount Tom | Gile Mountain | Joseph Smith’s Birthplace | King Arthur Bakery & Store | Vermont Institute of Natural Science)

“Come away by yourselves to a desolate place and rest a while.”

Our annual pilgrimage to Vermont invites me — by way of woodsmoke and hearty sandwiches — to consider the unnecessary distractions I’ve normalized in my everyday life. The noise in my heart and mind quiets down in the mountains without the extras, whatever those may be any given year. With clear eyes on family and daily forgiveness, alongside a healthy dose of spiritual indifference³ I’m slowly making adjustments to create a similar environment here within my ordinary life.

Retreats extend a similar invitation. Our little family getaways aren’t exactly spiritual retreats, but they do contain similar flavors: time set apart, rest, and connection to God. Christ modeled this practice throughout his ministry. His example is one we are wise to follow. Self-guided or group retreats can be a time of beauty, encouragement, and prayer. I’ve done several at home (before kids!) and a few at churches or retreat centers. Each time I’ve left feeling moved and challenged in new ways.

If this practice speaks to you, I strongly encourage you to incorporate it into your calendar. As a spiritual director, I’m happy to schedule a session during your time of rest or consult on the planning process. For paid subscribers I’ve put together a simple planning template for your next retreat over in the Library.

Have you taken a retreat before? What was that experience like for you?

With peace,

Elizabeth

Currently Reading:

• Thunder in the Soul: To Be Known By God by Abraham Joshua Heschel and Robert Erlewine

• The Trumpet of the Swan by E.B. White (Our family’s current read aloud.)

• Morning Time: A Liturgy of Love by Cindy Rollins

Quick Links:

• Explore liturgical seasons with this beautiful guide, written by yours truly.

• Catch my series on writing a Rule of Life by becoming a paid subscriber. (I’ll be posting a special Advent lectio divina series, too.

1. Don’t get me wrong, traveling with children is just parenting in a different place. There are still moments of disorder, like when my three year old stood up in her chair, propped one foot up, and dove straight into the floor of the restaurant.

2. My best road trip hack is homemade meals and snacks when possible. I packed that chicken potpie, along with pumpkin walnut bread and breakfast sandwiches with egg, cheese, and homemade pork sausage.

3. As in the Ignatian virtue of indifference.